Totorou

Tucked into a side street in Nakameguro, Totorou makes an easy first impression with its signature sashimi platter. Attractively arranged with fresh catches at an approachable price, it has become a staple way to open an evening over an initial drink. Plump raw oysters sourced from Ofunato in Iwate Prefecture are also on hand, offering a clean, briny bite to accompany a cold beer or chilled sake.

After raw seafood, the natural progression leads toward the shellfish-broth oden, simmered daily from clams and kelp. Daikon radish and fish cakes soak up the clear, gentle stock, taking on a subtle molluscan depth that pairs effortlessly with sake. The drinks list is well rounded, running from staple regional brews and seasonal labels to house-made honey lemon sours, making it simple to tailor a pour to each course.

Clay-pot rice brings the meal to a satisfying close. The salmon and ikura combination is cooked in seasoned broth so the grains fluff up under generous toppings of flaked fish and cured salmon roe. Diners can enjoy it straight from the pot or pour broth over the bowl in the style of ochazuke. With both counter seating and tables, the dining room holds a lively neighborhood buzz and fills up quickly at peak hours, so booking in advance is advisable.